Well its been a while due to commitments etc and a broken rib. But I have managed to finish welding up my exhaust by pass. Just need to mount the actuator and return spring. Haven't had time to look into the zero compression issue in great depth. Except I have pulled the rockers and upper timing belt cover. Everything looks good. Checked the cylinders with an endoscope and in one cylinder there is some strange fillings in there. Not sure exactly what they are so I am going to open the engine up and have a looks see. So my build is going to be at least another 6 weeks. Well that and a house move. Here's some pictures of my exhaust. I think it has turned out rather well, even if I do say so myself. You should like it Chris
Last Edit: Aug 17, 2018 17:05:11 GMT by byrney1984
Here's a few pictures of my homemade Polycarbonate engine cover. Made from Stainless flat bar for the frame and 4mm polycarbonate. I made this last summer just to show the whole engine bay off and also help keep it cooler. Works a treat.
Well time for a quick update. After pulling the lower cam belt cover and a quick word with Chris on the phone( thank you kind sir) the belt had jumped a few teeth. The tensionser had seized and also the pully was slightly loose not finger loose but I un done it with the short end of an allen key. I retimed the belt and was only getting 30 psi in one cylinder. So there is definitley something a miss. But not to worry I’ll pull the lump out this weekend. Well Monday as I’m taking the lad to see the red arrows. And tomorrow I’m picking a 3vz up off Pat( thanks again). So I will rebuild this on the bench and stick it in asap. Only down side is its a 2 week wait for the victor reinz gasket kit from the states. The last one served me well. But to keep me busy I’ll tear my 3vz down have a good look and put it on the racking until I can afford to forge it. Although for the same money I could have done a 2gr swap. But I like to be different. Plus I might have it painted for the shows next year. So give it about 6 weeks and it should be in and boosting. Maybe less just depends if I’m allowed any more spare time in the workshop
Well another update. After a long 6 hour drive to collect the engine from Pat( many thanks ) I thought I'll just pull the whole motor to pieces and give it the once over. I called at a local engine specialist this morning with the little man in tow. Asked the owner to have a look at the bores because I wasn't 100% sure what marks are within spec etc. He reckons its done a fair few miles but is good shape and no need to be honed etc. The little man was in awe of all the engines and machines well maybe me too. He's more of a biker than cars but I'm turning into a car lover.
Anyway the more interesting bits. No one knows much about the block. But after a tear down I can conclude that it has been fitted into a MR2 or at least had a machined out flywheel fitted to it Judging by the marks on the crank shaft.
I started with this
Quick strip of all the bits like the cam belt back plate, coolant pipes, oil pump( which looks rather new and not a Toyota one), Sump etc. Checked the big end shells and as I thought from turning it by hand they were shot. But not totally gone so the crank is in good shape
Then flipped it over on a pallet to remove the pistons.
Once out and checked, numbered etc. I noticed that they are in fact 0.5mm oversized pistons. the big end shells were not original either. Meaning that the block has had a overhaul before. Pistons rings and bores all in good shape and perfectly usable. Just need a clean.
Then removed the lower crank shaft cradle. I think that's what it's called.
Checked the mains and thrust washers. One main has a build of material and gouged the thrust washer. No matter as I'm rebuilding it.
The next hurdle was the oil pressure switch had snapped leaving the thread in the block.
Out with the only Snap on tooling I actually paid for and not acquired. A set of extractors and an awesome bit of kit. Just drilled out the thread then knock in the splined shaft.
Then it's just a case of sliding the removal nut on the shaft and winding it out.
It was bloody tight though. Because I had to drill it out again and use a bigger extractor. But got it out
Lastly for the evening I have removed all the old gasket material from everywhere and cleaned all the surface rust off best I could. Although I might get the block decked with the smallest amount removed just so it's a perfect finish. Well thanks to Chris and Pat. Hopefully I'll be able to bring it out soon singing a merry song of boost.
Pay day yesterday. So after scrawling the internet for a few hours. I bought myself some Mitsubishi 3000 gto ARP main studs( head studs and nuts ) I’ve been doing a lot of research mainly on the US swaps and I knownits kinda old news but these are what people have used for running boosted 3vz’s. Same thread pitch etc. You just need to turn a couple mm off 2 threads for the exhaust cam gear clearance. Incase anyone else is mad enough to follow me yhe kit number is 207-5801. Don’t get mistaken with the head stud kit 207-4205. Cost me £200 so not bad. I am looking at forged rods too. But at £1100 its a bit pricey and I have know idea where to get forged pistons. I know Paul used some on whoozy’s build many moons ago. But I can’t find any non custom ones. So if anyone has some information I would be really grateful. Cheers.
And another brief update. Just ordered all my required bottom end bearings. Mains, big end and thrust washers. All king bearings bearings as these are good quality. Well from previous experience and I ordered a few other little odds and end like a couple of AN6 fittings and silicone hoses. Because I’m going to us the charcoal canister. The engine bay is really going to be cramped haha. Just another £110 lighter urgh
Thanks for the info mate. Be interesting to see your build. Not mych has happened this week. Except I’m getting the crank polished. These turned up today Normal AN6 fitting and a compression fitting to adapt a hard pipe. Also my new cambelt arrived. Give it a couple of weeks and it should start lookkng like an engine again. In the mean time I bought a pit bike as a none runner. To get running and sell on. Or just mess around on. Even thought about doing a drift trike with the engine. Well worth £40. I paid £20 for the mini moto hahaha.
These arrived today Not bad delivery time really. Just have to wait until Wednesday to pick up my polished crank from the engine specialist. Then it’s time for the build. Hopefully my ARP head bolts will arrive soon. Then the fun can begin again. In the mean time the little man loves the bike. He’s motorbike mad haha Everything is on order for that little side project. Should be like new by friday. Then up for sale after the weekend. Owes me £90 so not a bad profit if I get the £200 asking price.
Picked my crankshaft back up from the engine shop all shinny and smooth as the day it was installed. May as well start from the ground up with good footings. Head bolts have arrived also. So tomorrow afternoon I will bolt it all back together with a genuine Toyota waterpump and gasket kit. With the exception of the head gaskets which are Victor Reinz. All good timing as I finished my 125 pit bike last night and stuck it up for sale Did a full strip down full re-spray and rebuilt with a lot of new parts. Its F’in quick too. So have to sell it because I’ll break my neck in it lol. But the lil lad loved riding it around the workshop with me haha. Stay tuned for some more boring pictures of yet another 3vz being put back together
Been really busy last week but managed to get the block ready for the rebuild. Well painted the bloody thing. For 2 reasons, first being it’s easier to trace oil leaks and secondly because it looks nice lol. Hopefully tomorrow evening I will be able to upload some pictures of the completed bottom end. Then Saturday I can pull the engine out the car, pinch the heads as long as they are good (Only because I’m lazy and can’t be arsed spending hours porting and polishing another set) I’ll get the smallest skim possible and be able to build the engine ready for the install.
Had some time today to build the bottom end. Using all king bearings and some Lucas assembly lube. Here’s the upper mains going in Not super interesting but it might help someone out. Crank offered up. Then fitted the thrust washers. Grooves facing out. Followed by fitting the main lower bearings to the main bearing cap Next up is to install the bearing cap torque the bolts up to 61nm and mark the heads Then tighten them a further 90 degrees Checked the crank for play and end float and its all good. Rotates nice and smooth like new. Then I installed all the pistons and conrod end caps. Making sure they were facing the correct way. Pistons and end caps are marked to face the crank pulley. Again lubed to death and torqued to 25nm and again marked and tightened a further 90 degrees. That as far as I have got. Hopefully I should have the other engine out and heada stripped off ready for skimming. Stay tuned.
Well where do I start. I started pulling out the engine in the car so I can see why there was an instant loss of conpression across all 6 cylinders. After removing everything except the engine and box. What a ballache and gutting after spending so many hours bloody fabricating and fitting everything. I decided to just pull the left cylinder head and have a nosey inside. Scooby doo on standby. The result is major scoring on all the walls. It’s been caused by some sort of foreign body. I can’t work out what it is. But its hard and almost like small balls. How its got in there is a mystery but I’m edging my bets that someone has done it deliberately. Its not the first time crap has happened to my car. When we first moved here some idiot spray painted the passeneger side. But nevermind. It’ll be stored inside from now on. Just need to strip the heads check skim and clean them. Reseat the valves and its ready to all go back together. The only plus is that I can tidy up the wiring looms for the Apexi controllers and the gauges and I might remake the intercooler brackets and I can fit the nitrous oxide solenoids and wiring alot neater.
So the block is U/S as an engine because its reall not cost effective to get it bored and rebuilt. Thats even if you can bore out that scoring. So I have a good crankshaft spare if anyone needs one and a spare pair of heads and camshafts. For the block I’m thinking just bore the bores smooth on the miller and make a coffee table. Using the pistons and con rods to hold the glass top
The result is major scoring on all the walls. It’s been caused by some sort of foreign body. I can’t work out what it is. But its hard and almost like small balls. How its got in there is a mystery but I’m edging my bets that someone has done it deliberately. Its not the first time crap has happened to my car. When we first moved here some idiot spray painted the passeneger side.
Thats crap. I'd be investing in a nice set of CCTV cameras to catch pricks doing that shit. Small balls? Yeah, whoever does stuff like that usually has a pair of small balls in hand.
Maybe they have seen your plans for the exhaust...
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